“Greece on the breadline”
Interesting interactive map from the Guardian (where else?), highlighting just a few of the thousands of individuals affected by the debt crisis: http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/interactive/2012/mar/13/greece-on-breadline-journey-interactive?CMP=twt_gu
Particularly poignant having been there so recently, but also perhaps unusually strengthening my thoughts about going back there this summer…
Image: Guardian.co.uk
Weekend in Athens
It would be fair to assume Athens has experienced a lull in tourist numbers over the tumultuous past few weeks. Thousands of demonstraters, buildings in flames, clouds of tear gas and a generous dose of riot police amidst the recent chaos in Syntagma Sqaure have rather obviously left the city in a most unfavourable light and from the images of anger and uncertainty that have been dominating the peoples response to the Eurozone Crisis in Greece, I was fairly apprehensive about landing in the capital 3 weeks ago.
The sight we were greeted with leaving the airport bus was therefore surprising as we made our way through the calm city centre, the same one I’d seen swarming with rioters on the news only a day earlier. That is not to say they hadn’t left their mark: charcoaled patches and copious amounts of graffiti were immediately visible, but for the trouble I was expecting, it was clear we had been seeing the most concentrated and violent images of the unrest. Still weary, but relieved not to have landed in the centre of protests, it certainly left us slightly more relaxed about the weekend ahead.
With only a year left ahead of me in an Ancient History and Classical Archaeology degree, ancient Athenian art, politics and literature has obviously been one of the most crucial and influential areas of study and having now spent 4 days in the city, experiencing as much as possible (is there such a thing as archaeological site overload?), it was slightly unreal at first to feel the hugely increased significance of everything in its original context. Pages of pottery, statues, inscriptions, temples…suddenly became tangible objects in their country of origin. If there was ever a time to feel as though there was still plenty I didn’t yet know about Classical Greece, it was most definitely right then.
Commanding the attention of the extremely varied Athenian skyline, there was only one obvious place to begin an acquaintance with the Athens of the past, and following a night of pre-Lent celebrations (ouzo, grilled meat and some intense bouzouki playing) culture immersion was already under way, and I felt ready for my first visit the Acropolis. Whether it was the direct effect on tourism following the unpredictable scale of the protests, or perhaps just a fortunate choice of year, it felt as though we had the South slope of the Acropolis to ourselves to explore. Beginning at the Theatre of Dionysus Eleuthereus (below), aside from ourselves there were also several reconstruction workers moving marble slabs around the audience stands. Only three years ago, Greek authorities agreed to fund a project costing six million euros to partially restore the theatre, due to be completed in 2015. Only a small section remains today but the theatre originally would have held around 15,000, and although the new capacity will be significantly lower, several tiers will be added with a combination of new stone and recovered ancient fragments.
We worked our way past the Stoa of Eumenes and the Asklepieion before arriving at the incredibly partially reconstructed and still employed Odeon of Herodes Atticus (below). Completed in 161 AD for the Athenian Herodes Atticus who dedicated it to his wife Aspasia Annia Regilla, the Odeon could have held some 5,000 spectators in antiquity and connected to the Eumenes Stoa, it was originally roofed, mostly hosting musical festivals. Burnt down in 267, the building was never reconstructed, and by the fourteenth century it was apparently buried so deeply that an Italian traveller identified it as a bridge. Restored in 1953, public concerts, opera and theatre take place throughout the year on the chequered floors and new marble seats. Bizarrely, it was also host to the Miss Universe 1973 contest.
Moving upwards and towards the Western modern entrance through the Propylaea, which although surviving for a longer period of time than its counterparts on the Acropolis, endured the most damage in 1656 by an explosion of a powder magazine, and since then has only partially been reconstructed. From here though I was granted my first full view across the Agora and out towards the coastline, and was immediately struck at the scale of size of the city. With a current population of around 4 million, apartment blocks and huge buildings are spread across the entire plain and begin creeping up the bases of the surrounding mountains. Even centuries before the Parthenon construction period, it was difficult to grasp just how inescapable and attention grabbing this mound must have been on the landscape. With coastline visible to the East and West, what was clear to understand however, was the sense of patriotism so visible in artistic representations, that Athenians must have felt looking out onto this vast valley of land from coast to coast.
Rather than individually summarise each area of the top of the Acropolis (so this post does not run on for pages!), I’ll save that for a separate log entry. So a brief visit in photos…
The Erechtheion
The caryatids looking Westward
The sacred olive tree serving as a reminder the the victorious gift from Athena in the contest for patron of the city.
The North side of the Parthenon
The remains of the East pediment of the Parthenon
Looking South East towards the temple of Olympian Zeus
Viewing the colossus remains of the temple of Olympian Zeus from the summit of the Acropolis, we set off the following afternoon to explore these incredible ruins now engulfed by the modern city. Begun in the sixth century BC, the temple was not completed for over 600 years, and yet upon completion in the Roman occupation, it was still considered the largest temple in Greece. Finished in the reign of Hadrian, his arch (below) stands on the periphery of the temple grounds and it has been proposed that it’s purpose was to commemorate and honour Hadrian’s contributions to the city including the dedication of the close temple (it is thought that next to the cult statue of Zeus, also stood a huge cult statue of Hadrian). However another suggestion points to the arch signifying the boundaries of “old” and “new” Athens, with two inscriptions on both sides; one reading “this is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus”, and on the other side “this is the city of Hadrian, and not of Theseus.” Or as scholar Alison Adams suggests, perhaps rather than dividing the city into two, is was a representation of a re-founding of the entire city?
To condense this entire trip, although just an extended weekend, into a single tumblr post has already proven an impossible task. The acropolis itself contains such a significant and rich history that even only a fraction can be conveyed in the new Acropolis museum (that can also be read as a comment on Lord Elgin’s theft).
Within the context of current situation in Athens and the general feeling of the locals we had the opportunity to speak with, the preservation and maintenance of these sites is more than ever vitally important. It may have to been to our advantage that we were able to explore many of the huge attractions without the queues and business to be expected, but for the city, and in fact the entire country’s sake, the reliance upon tourist income has never been so essential. And I will most definitely be returning to contribute further…
Helike rediscovered
Visited in antiquity by Strabo, Aelian and Pausanias, the site of Helike which infamously ‘sank’ in 373 BC was thought to be lost to legend, until 2001 when it was rediscovered not underwater as alluded to by ancient literature, but buried inland in a former lagoon. Following an earthquake and resulting tsunami, Helike became completely submerged, and the natural catastrophe was attributed to the revenge of Poseidon, following the city’s refusal to give colonists in Asia their cult statue of him. Sunk in what Eratosthenes described as a “poros”, this was interpreted for years to mean the Gulf of Corinth. However due to the work of Dora Katsonopoulou and Steven Soter, the possibility was introduced that this could in fact have meant an inland lagoon created by an enormous tsunami. No lagoon in this area survives to this day, but careful study of the geography of the region and a magnetometer survey undertaken in the delta area near the Corinthian Gulf coast led to the discovery of building outlines, roughly two miles inland from the coast itself. Dated by coins and pottery, there is still years of work to be carried out at the site to truly understand the extent of the city that had such a significant impact until the 4th century BC. Also rather interestingly, as an article in the Independent in 2005 outlined, the submergence of Helike may have inspired Pluto’s Atlantis tale:
“Near the Gulf of Corinth, the ancient city of Helike fits the Atlantis profile as it was a flourishing city struck down in its prime by an earthquake in 373BC. The city state was the centre of a cult of Poseidon, second only in importance to the Oracle at Delphi. Generations of fishermen in the Gulf have told of snagging their nets on statues of, an apparently wrathful, Poseidon.”
Fascinatingly, before the lagoon silted over the become buried in the earth, Roman visitors were said to have sailed over the site frequently, marvelling at the ruins below.
The above coin is rare find from the site, with the obverse and reverse very clearly depicting Poseidon.
More recent coverage of the site is here: http://popular-archaeology.com/issue/december-2011/article/archaeologists-uncovering-legendary-lost-city-of-poseidon
Excavations and research also take place every summer, run by http://www.helikeproject.gr/
In one of well documented attempts to ‘rediscover’ Helike in 1979 in the Corinthian Gulf, a Greek undersea explorer Alexis Papadopoulos discovered a sunken town he believed to be Helike, and made a documentary of his findings which were up to 45 m underwater. According to an article discussing his work in 1983 “Whether or not this town can be identified with Helike is a question to be answered by extensive underwater research. In any case, the discovery of this town can be regarded as an extremely interesting find.”
I also happened to come across one of the most glamorous underwater archaeology photos possibly in existence whilst researching work around the time of Alexis Papadopoulos. This is from the cover of the magazine Underwater World, showing a snapshot of the television series “The Magic of the Deep””
Bible vs. History
When the two meet, the resulting arguments are often explosive. Here’s the most recent story I’ve come across.
“Archaeologists strike gold in quest to find Queen of Sheba’s wealth” - http://www.guardian.co.uk/science/2012/feb/12/archaeologists-and-quest-for-sheba-goldmines?INTCMP=SRCH
Otto Speaks
Clearly I’ve been reading only archaeology sites recently, as I almost missed this incredible story. Found in Thomas Edison’s lab in an unlabelled box in 1957, a wax cylinder phonograph from 1889 has for the first time in 100 years, revealed the voice of Otto Von Bismarck. Restoration work undertaken by the Thomas Edison National Historical Park Museum uncovers a very faint and crackling, but just audible voice of the German statesman, who recites poetry and offers words of wisdom. As for the recorder, Adelbert Theodor Wangemann, following emigration from Germany he became an assistant to Thomas Edison. The phonograph itself was accompanied by Wangemann at the Paris Expo in 1889 to ensure it remained working and following the success, his trip was extended. According to the NY Times “After Paris, Wangemann toured his native Germany, recording musical artists and often visiting the homes of prominent members of society who were fascinated with the talking machine.”
As well as the fateful day of October 7th 1889 when Wangemann caught Bismarck’s musings, in a similarly sensational fashion he later recorded German military strategist Helmuth von Moltke who was at the time, 89. As the sound historian Stephan Puille puts it, “these are the only recordings of a person born in the 18th which are still audible today.” All the more significant when put in those terms…
The technical details of how the wax cylinders were played once more are here: http://www.theatlantic.com/technology/archive/2012/01/edisons-files-reveal-the-only-known-voice-recording-of-someone-born-in-the-18th-century/252283/
And the recording: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-16831933
A postcard from Adelbert Wangemann sent from Germany to Thomas Edison.
The Legendary Cecrops
Whilst researching for an essay about Erechtheus and the mythology surrounding the Erechtheion, I have been dealing with the very roots of Athenian legendary history. In the most basic form, it is still a rather fantastical tale, beginning with the half-man half-serpent Cecrops, the mythical first King of Athens from whom the ancient citizens claimed descent (Although Pausanias attributes the first kingship of all Attica to Actaeus, I’ll use Apollodorus’ account citing Cecrops as the original ruler for this purpose). Born of the earth, as was typical of the mythical first kings, he was a witness to the contest of Athena and Poseidon over patronage of the city and ultimately deemed Athena’s gift of the olive tree as superior.
In the slightly darker interpretation of the story as explained in The Oxford encyclopedia of ancient Greece and Rome: “The contest manifests the value that gods place upon the people. The women, who hold a one-person majority, vote for Athena, and the men vote for Poseidon. Athena’s victory confers upon Cecropians her name for them and the protections of Zeus’ daughter. To appease the wrathful Poseidon, Cecrops deprives the women of suffrage, matriliny, and citizenship, thus establishing the patriarchal dominance of the male.”
As the story continues in a similarly unsettling manner, during Cecrops reign his half-serpent ancestor Erichthonios was born from the semen of Hephaestus, after Athena wiped it to the ground from her leg after his attempt to violate her. Athena took it upon herself to raise Erichthonios and he is thought to have established the annual Panathenaic festival.
A typically feelgood Greek myth then, but story aside I was interested in representations of a king who was half-snake (or in some instances, a dragon), half-man and how the technicalities of his image worked. So here a few old and new depictions of this king so core to Athenian legacy of which I hope to find more of when I fly to Athens in two weeks…
(For all ancient references to his myth in literature, this site surely covers them all http://www.theoi.com/Heros/Kekrops.html)
Images:
http://www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/image?img=Perseus:image:1990.26.0145
http://www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/artifact?name=Berlin%20F%202537&object=Vase
http://peregrinacultural.wordpress.com/2011/08/31/a-cobra-norato-fabula-do-folclore-brasileiro-%E2%80%93-versao-de-jose-coutinho-de-oliveira/
http://www.pantheon.org/areas/gallery/mythology/europe/greek/cecrops.html
Mesopotamian Riddles
Before beginning this blog almost a year ago, I was directed to the Yahoo group Explorator. Concerning “practically anything relating to archaeology or history prior to WWI”, the weekly email is the perfect time saver for viewing possibly the largest collection of archaeological online news stories, blogs and articles.
And free! http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Explorator/
Attracting much attention in the newsletter this week and rather impossible to glance over, was news of the translation of fragmentary Mesopotamian tablets…imparting ancient riddles. Written in Akkadian cuneiform and dating from around 1500 BC, some appear to be obscure metaphors as opposed to word puzzles and the translation itself is in places, tentative. But here are some of the more curious examples:
http://www.livescience.com/18147-ancient-riddles-decoded-mesopotamia.html
The pictured tablet isn’t of course that of the new translation, as it’s current location is unknown, but was sadly it was most likely lost in the 2003 looting of the National Museum of Iraq.
More on the story here: http://in.news.yahoo.com/ancient-mesopotamians-enjoyed-riddles-sex-beer-politics-101226303.html
Apparently is was National Popcorn day on January 19th? (Although there is some debate, so if you are at all concerned about this, check here: http://bit.ly/6w68Pe)
So just before I head up to the Highlands for the weekend, the link in the header is to one of the smaller but nevertheless interesting articles from the past couple of days…Peruvian snacks 6,000 years ago.
Also here: http://www.eurekalert.org/pub_releases/2012-01/stri-apd011812.php
Monk’s Cave
Recently acquiring a new metal detector (really, it’s brilliant) and having tested out the settings on Silver Sands beach in Aberdour, I headed up the bitingly cold Fife coastline with particular direction towards to the enigmatic Monk’s cave. Past the golf course and in the shadow of the foreboding Braefoot Bay Gas Terminal, low tide allows access to Monk’s Cave which looks across to Mortimer’s Deep and the island of Inchcolm. A particularly treacherous area of coast off the island, Mortimer’s deep is believed to be named after William De Mortimer, Lord of Aberdour in around the 1180’s who apparently following a feud with the monks who lived on the island, murdered him and dropped his body into this deep part of the waters.
Less gruesomely, but none the less interesting, the more likely story is as written on http://www.british-history.ac.uk, “(Aberdour) castle, with the lands, passed, in 1125, from the Viponts, by marriage, to the Mortimers, of whom Allen de Mortimer granted the western portion of the lands to the monks of Inchcolm, in consideration of the privilege of being allowed to bury in the church of their monastery on the island, about a mile distant from the shore. When conveying the remains of one of that family to the abbey for interment, a violent storm is said to have arisen, which compelled the party to throw the coffin into the channel, which, from that circumstance, obtained the appellation of “Mortimer’s Deep.”
To call it a ‘cave’ is slight misleading, as it is carved into the side of a small cliff, and it was probably built for the purpose of holding supplies by the monks of Inchcolm. Nestled in between the World War II gun emplacements and ammunition stations that are scattered along the coast line, it’s certainly not the most picturesque jaunt of the Fife Coastal Route but is worth the great views of Inchcolm island and the feeling of having stumbled across an almost well kept secret.
Metal detector efforts were fruitless however.
And even if I did find something, I’m not sure I’d be sharing it here.
First photo from http://www.geograph.org.uk
